October 24th to 27th 1871
Oct. 24th. Evening
Wrote all morning on official business and after tiffin went out for a jinriksha ride with
Wasson. They have jinrikshas here now which are much improved over those of which I wrote
and sent a sketch shortly after I got here. They are suggested by the sketch. I like
better to go shopping in them than in the carriage or on horse back for they are so
convenient to stop and alight from. Would you like a shopping scene which took place
yesterday? Remember that these Jap merchants invariably ask more than they mean to take
and that they rather like a chaffering customer. I am riding along in my jinriksha when in
a quiet, unpretending shop a large and handsome lacquer box catches my eye, which I think
would look well in our parlour. (Page 110)
I sing out "maté jinriksha!" ("wait jinriksha!") and my jinriksha
stops. I alight and address the shop keeper who is squatted cross legged and smoking, in
the following euphonious language, "Koré wa ikura?" ("How much is
this?"). He answers, after considering for a moment what I will give "Jiu ni
rio" ("Twelve rios" - about fourteen dollars). I look surprised and
indignant and ejaculate "Taksan, taksan!" (Too much, too much!") He
remarks, as nearly as my limited knowledge of Japanese enables me to understand, that the
box in question is one of a pair which are sold together at the above named price, that it
is very fine and was part of the plunder of the Tycoons palace, during the last war,
all of which I know to be true for I see that the quality is very good and the boxes bear
the Tycoons well known arms, three heart shaped leaves in a circle, which no man
would in old times have dared to put on anything - not the personal property of the
Tycoon, and now dare not use at all. I examine the boxes, look a little disappointed, and
offer him "Jiu rio" ("Ten rios"). The merchant vigorously responds
"Jiye, jiye" ("No, no") and I turn to go but have not gone ten feet
before (Page 111) I hear the
merchant call out "Yoro shi" ("Very good", used in Japan as equivalent
to our "All right") and return to tell him "Kono shiba motokoi" (Send
these to Shiba (our residence) and I am the happy possessor of two superb lacquer cases,
with gold plated corners, a relic of the dethroned which, when they come home, the General
offers me $25.00 each for, and which our Jap officials assert to be worth 50 rios each and
for which I paid about $11.50, that is, $5.75 each. They will be beautiful pieces of
furniture. Well, having spent all that, I think I ought too for the day. I tell my
jinriksha man "Shiba, jigini!" ("Shiba, and hurry!) and rattle home just in
time to meet the doctor who was surgeon of the America when we came, with a party of
friends, hunting for our quarters. They cannot stay to dinner, but after a short call say
good day, then comes dinner at 7 p.m. and the usual evening of employment of
writing, reading and study, and, save the writing my journal, the day is over.
One thing more, and it is a little singular that I almost forgot (Page 112) it. We had an earthquake shock today. It
occurred just before dinner while I was lying on the lounge in my room. It lasted perhaps
three seconds and seemed to be a trembling of the earth which made the timber of the house
creak and set the water in our wash bowls vibrating. It was much such a motion as takes
place in a house near a rail road on the passage of a train. There have been several
slight shocks before since I have been in Japan, but they occurred at night and did not
wake any of us.
Oct. 25th. Evening.
Quiet work and study all morning. Jondon and Herron and a Mr Pearson of Yokohama dined
with us and we had a very pleasant time. Just after we left the table a messenger arrived
with our mail. Letters for me from my wife, Hawley Weber, my mother, Mr Russell and a Mr
Hayden of the Indian Bureau who makes the modest request that I send him a collection of
Japanese coins.
Oct. 26th. Evening.
Went horseback riding this afternoon with Wasson and (Page 113) the General, my foot having so far recovered that I can
wear a boot. Just after we got started, Haríki came running after us with the information
that Mr Adams, the acting English minister, was coming to call on the General, so the
latter turned back. Wasson and I rode on to the place where I bought my lacquer boxes, and
the old merchant escorted us to a place where they had, in a little back room, a superb
collection of lacquered articles, all from the Tycoons palace. It is a complete set
of toilet articles for a Japanese princess and comprises over one hundred and fifty
pieces, all exquisite and some very large. Here the General joined us again, and as the
merchant would only sell the set as a whole, at a price of $300.00, neither Wasson nor I
could touch them, though there were several things among the number that we wanted. The
General offered $250.00 for the lot and the merchant wishing time to consider it, we left.
The General went home and Wasson and I pursued our researches further into a quarter of
town we had never before visited. Stopping at a very modest shop, the old lady who was in
charge beckoned us through several winding (Page
114) passages into a little back room which contained a collection of curious even
finer than the one we had just see, including ancient armour etc. We were soon joined by
the merchant himself who invited us to visit another store room in which he said he had
some very choice articles. It was only a few doors off and upstairs. This ware room seemed
to be a sort of special deposit bank in which the neighbouring merchants deposited their
most valuable articles, and some of the goods were superb. The most exquisite silver work,
lacquer and bronzes were here that I have ever seen. Wasson bought a few articles to take
home, but I resisted temptation like a man, thinking of a certain silk dress that must be
bought yet.
This evening arrived three boxes of California pears, sent by a friend of the
Generals with a request that he present a portion to the Tenno. We picked out a
hundred and fifty of the best and have been feasting ourselves and our household on the
remainder. I gave Mr Kuroda some specially fine ones, telling him to present them to Mrs
K. with my compliments, which caused our Japs much amusement but evidently pleased Mr
Kuroda.
(Page 115)
Oct. 27th. Evening.End of this section