4th to 6th October 1871

Oct. 4th. Evening
I slept but little last night as my sprain was very painful and we did not breakfast in consequence until 11 o’clock. As all preparation had been made for going fishing, however, I made up my mind that I could be just as comfortable in a boat as at home, so at 12 two stout coolies carried me to a jinriksha at the gate which delivered me safely on board of a boat.
We fished in the bay till about five o’clock when a severe storm came up, and as we were near Sinogarra (Page 88), (the scene of our last nights adventures) Horé, who was with us, put in there, and we took refuge in a tea house when the usual round of tea, fish, soup, singing girls and danseuses began. The rain was fearful so we were in for it, though rather bored. After a while Horé asked us if we would not like to take a regular Japanese bath, as the house had superior accommodations. I agreed and was soon notified that my bath was ready. I was shown by an elderly female into a neat bathroom containing a large tank of steaming hot water and several small tubs. I undressed and was about proceeding with my bath when much to my astonishment and a little to my discomfiture the sliding door opened and admitted a very pretty girl who, in the most businesslike manner girded her clothes about her waist and signified that she had come to scrub me. She went to work by pouring a tub of scalding not water down my back, and while I was gasping and ready to howl with pain and making fruitless (Page 89) efforts to explain that the water was too hot, three more girls entered and squatted on their heels, Japanese fashion, to watch the scrubbing of the foreigner. At length, after being chased around the room by my scrubbeuse, who seemed determined to cook my unsophisticated flesh, I succeeded in making her understand that I wanted a bath and not a boil, and with the help of some cold water I got comfortably through. While dressing, every motion and article of clothing was the subject of examination and remarks while the four girls assisted me to attire myself to the best of their ability. Barring the boiling, I believe, on the whole that I like a Japanese bath. Afterwards, Wasson was put through the same style, and as I gave him no hint as to the heat of the water, he was as nearly flayed as I. The rest of our party having been through the bath also, we returned home by jinriksha, reaching here about an hour ago after a tearing ride through the mud in which my two legged horse slipped up and was run over by the vehicle, nearly pitching me out.
My foot is very lame still, but better than (Page 90) it was this morning.

Oct. 5th. Evening
Rained more or less all day. Was so lame too, that quiet was essential. So stayed at home and studied Japanese and Holmes System of Surgery. The General returned about 6 p.m. having enjoyed his visit to Yokohama very much.

Oct. 6th. Evening
Studied all morning and selected certain receipts from my cook book to be translated by the interpreter into Japanese for the use of our cook. After tiffin was invited to visit the private museum of a Japanese gentleman. Wasson and the Genl. rode on horseback, but my lame foot compelled me to go in a jinriksha. The collection is a queer one. It contains odds and ends from all parts of the earth. A beautiful French articulated skull, an anteater from Java, bears’ claws and skulls from Yesso, a small image from Egypt, prehistoric implements from various parts of Japan, corresponding closely and in some cases exactly to the celts spearheads, hatchets etc. (Page 91) of the stone age of Europe and America. There was a large double ended stone (illegible) also, of which duplicates exist in the collections of prehistoric antiquities from Europe in the Smithsonian Institution. I was particularly struck with the bears skull and claws which seem to me identical with those of an American grizzly.
The General today read orders to buy a 200 ton ?steamer for running around Yesso (illegible). Tonight we had a long conversation as to the proper terms for professors etc. in the new arrangements. The General is very small in his ideas and it will take careful management to bring the matter straight. I think, however, that it will all be fixed properly. He told me that he did not intend that I should remain for the rest of the year on my present salary, at which I have to say I was surprised, for I have said nothing except in the reference to the time after the expiration of my present contract. I intend to work for a future salary of $5000.00, a furnished house and subsistence allowance (Page 92) of $100.00 per month. I think that it will be likely to be so fixed. We also, I think, tonight fixed Wasson’s matter pretty definitely. He will return home, anyhow, and if he gets an engagement will probably bring out his wife, my wife, Antisell’s wife and the Genl’s wife in the spring. He is a splendid fellow as I think you will say when you know him.

End of this section

Part 14 7th to 12th October 1871

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