4th to 6th October 1871
Oct. 4th. Evening
I slept but little last night as my sprain was very painful and we did not breakfast in
consequence until 11 oclock. As all preparation had been made for going fishing,
however, I made up my mind that I could be just as comfortable in a boat as at home, so at
12 two stout coolies carried me to a jinriksha at the gate which delivered me safely on
board of a boat.
We fished in the bay till about five oclock when a severe storm came up, and as we
were near Sinogarra (Page 88), (the
scene of our last nights adventures) Horé, who was with us, put in there, and we took
refuge in a tea house when the usual round of tea, fish, soup, singing girls and danseuses
began. The rain was fearful so we were in for it, though rather bored. After a while Horé
asked us if we would not like to take a regular Japanese bath, as the house had superior
accommodations. I agreed and was soon notified that my bath was ready. I was shown by an
elderly female into a neat bathroom containing a large tank of steaming hot water and
several small tubs. I undressed and was about proceeding with my bath when much to my
astonishment and a little to my discomfiture the sliding door opened and admitted a very
pretty girl who, in the most businesslike manner girded her clothes about her waist and
signified that she had come to scrub me. She went to work by pouring a tub of scalding not
water down my back, and while I was gasping and ready to howl with pain and making
fruitless (Page 89) efforts to
explain that the water was too hot, three more girls entered and squatted on their heels,
Japanese fashion, to watch the scrubbing of the foreigner. At length, after being chased
around the room by my scrubbeuse, who seemed determined to cook my unsophisticated flesh,
I succeeded in making her understand that I wanted a bath and not a boil, and with the
help of some cold water I got comfortably through. While dressing, every motion and
article of clothing was the subject of examination and remarks while the four girls
assisted me to attire myself to the best of their ability. Barring the boiling, I believe,
on the whole that I like a Japanese bath. Afterwards, Wasson was put through the same
style, and as I gave him no hint as to the heat of the water, he was as nearly flayed as
I. The rest of our party having been through the bath also, we returned home by jinriksha,
reaching here about an hour ago after a tearing ride through the mud in which my two
legged horse slipped up and was run over by the vehicle, nearly pitching me out.
My foot is very lame still, but better than (Page 90) it was this morning.
Oct. 5th. Evening
Rained more or less all day. Was so lame too, that quiet was essential. So stayed at home
and studied Japanese and Holmes System of Surgery. The General returned about 6 p.m.
having enjoyed his visit to Yokohama very much.
Oct. 6th. Evening
Studied all morning and selected certain receipts from my cook book to be translated by
the interpreter into Japanese for the use of our cook. After tiffin was invited to visit
the private museum of a Japanese gentleman. Wasson and the Genl. rode on horseback, but my
lame foot compelled me to go in a jinriksha. The collection is a queer one. It contains
odds and ends from all parts of the earth. A beautiful French articulated skull, an
anteater from Java, bears claws and skulls from Yesso, a small image from Egypt,
prehistoric implements from various parts of Japan, corresponding closely and in some
cases exactly to the celts spearheads, hatchets etc. (Page 91) of the stone age of Europe and America. There was a large
double ended stone (illegible) also, of which duplicates exist in the collections of
prehistoric antiquities from Europe in the Smithsonian Institution. I was particularly
struck with the bears skull and claws which seem to me identical with those of an American
grizzly.
The General today read orders to buy a 200 ton ?steamer for running around Yesso
(illegible). Tonight we had a long conversation as to the proper terms for professors etc.
in the new arrangements. The General is very small in his ideas and it will take careful
management to bring the matter straight. I think, however, that it will all be fixed
properly. He told me that he did not intend that I should remain for the rest of the year
on my present salary, at which I have to say I was surprised, for I have said nothing
except in the reference to the time after the expiration of my present contract. I intend
to work for a future salary of $5000.00, a furnished house and subsistence allowance (Page 92) of $100.00 per month. I think
that it will be likely to be so fixed. We also, I think, tonight fixed Wassons
matter pretty definitely. He will return home, anyhow, and if he gets an engagement will
probably bring out his wife, my wife, Antisells wife and the Genls wife in the
spring. He is a splendid fellow as I think you will say when you know him.
End of this section
Part 14 7th to 12th October 1871